Among the Tiniest of Stars

November 07, 2023 by Amanda Barberis

I’ve spent my entire life dreaming of the tiny tropical islands of the Southern Pacific ocean. And no island so far has made an impression on me quite like Rarotonga in the Cook Islands. My first visit to the Cooks Islands was back in 2004. It was about 5 years after living in American Samoa and just 5 years after I moved to Hawaii. At this point in my life, I believed I had already “seen” paradise but it wasn’t until I woke up that first morning on Rarotonga did I finally “feel” it.

Rarotonga was my childhood vision board. Everything I ever dreamed about when I thought of the South Pacific was there. The vibrant colors, the dewy air, the fragrant flowers, the white powered sand, the crystal clear lagoon…I finally found it. That’s not to say that I didn’t find these things in Samoa or Hawaii, but in the Cooks, it just hit different. I still can’t quite explain it.

Soon after I discovered Rarotonga, Aloha Airlines was sold and sadly I had no longer had a direct route to the Cooks from Honolulu. I figured that another airline would quickly scoop up the the route so in the meantime my husband and I started exploring the rest of the South Pacific. Tahiti, Australia, New Zealand, Tahiti again, again, and again but still, no Cooks. I had finally decided that if there was no direct route by the time a big birthday came up ( still a few years from now ) then I would go back to the Rarotonga via New Zealand. Then suddenly out of nowhere, Hawaiian Airlines added Rarotonga to their destinations in May of 2023! And without much thought, I booked a flight immediately and I finally got back to my favorite island in the world…20 years after my first visit.

The famous Rito hats of the Cook Islands. I finally had to break down ( $$$ ) and buy one.

Plant-based eats at the Lucky Rooster Eatery in Avarua.

My husband REALLY enjoying his breakfast wrap at Kai and Co.

My favorite beach in the world. Titikaveka

Our absolute favorite place to eat on Rarotonga. Beluga. My husband said they had the BEST sandwich he’s ever had. and it was vegetarian!

Locally made pareu at the Saturday markets

Muri Beach in front of the Pacific Resort.

How to get there

Hawaiian Airlines currently flies to Rarotonga from Honolulu once a week. You can also get to Rarotonga on Air New Zealand through Auckland. I believe they have daily flights.

Where to stay

We stayed at the Muri Beachcomber ( Mid- Range $$ ) in Muri Beach. The staff, location, and the grounds exceeded all expectations! Included in the price were airport transfers, a daily simple breakfast, housekeeping, bikes, kayaks, SUPs, and snorkel gear. The only complaint we had was the bed. If you like a VERY firm mattress then you’ll be fine.

High End $$$

The Little Polynesian - aiming to stay here next trip!
The Nautilus
The Pacific Resort

On a budget $

Tropical Sands - Adorable. And the sweetest couple from Maui are the owners and also lifelong friends of mine.

Where to eat - In my experience, I found that the food selection was better in the Cooks vs. Tahiti. The dishes seem to be a bit “lighter”, plant-based was easier to come by, and the vegetables/greens seemed a lot fresher. Also, wine was much cheaper. Gotta love those New Zealand Sauv Blancs!

Beluga - Casual breakfast/lunch
The Muri Night Market - casual dinner - starts at 5pm, 4 nights a week
The Lucky Rooster Eatery - casual
The Pacific Resort - casual, happy hour, and fine dining ( dinner ) - open all day
Kai and Co. Eatery - casual breakfast and lunch

Where to Shop - I’ll be honest, there isn’t a whole lot of shopping on Rarotonga. At least not much for me, which is probably a good thing. However, do not miss the huge market on Saturday in downtown Avarua. Everything you would want from the Cook Islands will be there.

Punanga Nui Market on Saturday - The best place to buy the Cook Islands famous Rito Hats and Rito fans, Cook Island black pearls, locally made pareus, local coffee, vanilla, and wood carvings by local artists like Henry Tavioni.

Things to do - We’re not much into “activities” on vacation. We like to rent a car and explore on our own which is exactly what we did this trip. Unfortunately, October can we a bit “chilly” ( highs in the mid 70s lows mid 60s ) and windy ( tradewinds were at an unrelenting 20 mph the whole week ) which was my exact opposite experience when I went to the Cook Islands for the first time in late March. That being said, Rarotonga is all about the gorgeous lagoon and I love taking a SUP or kayak out to the motus in the Muri area. This is hands down my favorite activity to do.

Also maybe try…

Hiking - there’s a famous cross island trek worth checking out
Driving the old “inner” road around the island.
Visiting the Wigmore waterfall.
Whale watching - July through October is Humpback whale season in Rarotonga. We were lucky to see some incredible breaching from the beaches!
Long beach walks - I’ve spent a lot of time in the South Pacific and I have to say that Rarotonga has some of the most beautiful ( long ) white sand beaches out there. If you’re lucky, one ( or 3! ) of Raro’s many sweet pups will join you. My favorite places for a long beach walk include, the Muri area, Titikaveka, and Nikao/Black Rock Beach near the airport.
Spa Treatments - There a many spas to choose from on Rarotonga. I had an incredible massage at the Pacific Resort and my husband did as well at the Nautilus.

Helpful tips

The New Zealand Dollar - Gotta love the exchange rate in the Cook Islands compared to Tahiti. On this trip the exchange was only .59 NZD to the US $1. I ordered about $500 NZD from my local bank in Hawaii before our trip so I didn’t have to deal with the local ATMs on the island. Cash is great to have on hand because some of the local eateries and craft markets are cash only.

Rent a car - I personally have to have a car when I’m traveling but you don’t need one in Rarotonga. There is a bus that circles the island daily. I rented a small car from Avis and could pick it up near our resort but drop it off at the airport when we departed.

Go to Aitutaki - This is one thing we blew it on. We absolutely should have booked this in advance because by the time we got to Rarotonga the flights were full. On the next trip to the Cooks, we plan on staying on Aitutaki for a few days. But if that’s not in the budget, there’s the Aitutaki Day Tour with Air Rarotonga. This came HIGHLY recommended by several people we spoke with.

KIA ORANA!! xo

Kauai Staycation

March 05, 2023 by Amanda Barberis

Two and a half weeks on Kauai…

This was the longest vacation that we’ve ever taken in our home state. So no need for a long haul flight, the inevitable jet lag, and complicated currency exchanges. Instead, it was just a couple of small suitcases and then a quick island hop before landing on one of our favorite islands in the Pacific.

We stayed at two locations in Princeville, the Westin Villas, and then on to a VRBO after that. I would say that we ate in at least half the trip this time. Restaurants are sparse and busy on the Northshore so having accommodations with a kitchen was very helpful.

We spent most of the trip traveling between Kilauea and Haena just surfing, free diving, hiking, and eating packed lunches out of our broken cooler. It was exactly what we needed.

We did a lot of shopping too. We always do when we visit our neighboring islands. I came home with new muumuus, shell jewelry, and some nice additions for the home. Here’s a short list of our favorites…

Ohana Shop
Hunter Gatherer
Sway Hanalei
Aloha Xchng

And we ate at all of our favorite places…

Ama
Baracuda
Trilogy Coffee
The Bistro
Sushi Girl
Kauai Juice Co.
Nourish Hanalei
The Hanalei Gourmet

If anyone has any questions about Kauai, please feel free to reach out. Same with Maui of course.

Aloha XOXO

Huge sushi burrito at Sushi Girl in downtown Kilauea

Kauai Getaway

January 10, 2022 by Amanda Barberis

We had big plans for 2021. My husband was turning 50 and to celebrate this milestone, we had planned a month-long surf trip ( his choice ) to Bali, Indonesia. We were so excited. We absolutely love Bali and we couldn't wait to get back there. Unfortunately, Covid obviously had other plans for us as well as the rest of the planet.

Having to cancel a month-long vacation to an exotic locale is hardly the end of the world. I understand that it’s a massive privilege to even be able to consider such a trip in the first place. However, the reality is Bali isn't going anywhere and getting on a plane for 18 hours to fly across the Pacific Ocean to the Indian Ocean during a global pandemic is probably not the best idea. On top of that, Bali was basically "closed for business" in 2021.

But I was dealing with my first true case of island fever in 23 years. I can honestly tell you, I have never felt “island fever” before even though I get asked about it constantly. It was probably a combination of many different things, but I must admit, I was kind of going bananas. Lucky for us, we live in an insanely beautiful state, and we were able to hop on a 40-minute flight to Kauai to ease my isolation anxiety and to finally celebrate my husband's belated 50th birthday. This was the first vacation we had been on since early 2019. Like always, Kauai doesn't ever disappoint. Of all the gorgeous places I have been fortunate to see in my 40+ years on this planet, the sheer drama and beauty of the island of Kauai are up there with French Polynesia and the Cook Islands in my humble opinion.

This time we stayed in Kapaa, which is centrally located on Kauai’s east side. However next time we go, which is actually coming up this spring, we will be staying in Princeville since we finally realized that we always tend to spend most of our time on Kauai's lush north shore.

So here’s a photo journal of our brief 6-day semi-staycation. Can’t wait to go back to Kauai for a much longer stay this spring since we had to cancel another trip ( thanks again Covid ) we had planned to Costa Rica not too long ago. But then again, Costa Rica isn’t going anywhere but sadly, neither is Covid-19 for the time being. Until then, we have decided to finally take some time to visit our neighboring islands.

Avocado and Pesto Toast from Trilogy Coffee

Where we stayed

Sheraton Kauai Coconut Beach Resort - I had a ton of Marriott Bonvoy points so I ended up using them for this stay. The Sheraton is conveniently located on the beach in the center of Kapaa and is within walking distance of many shops and cafes. Kapaa is only 10 miles from the Lihue airport which was an added bonus. We didn't spend much time at the resort but I did enjoy the onsite workout facilities since I'm such an early riser. We also spent a few evenings at the Crooked Surf restaurant. They had a great bar menu and were super accommodating when it came to so some of my plant-based requests. All the bartenders were also very friendly and fun to chat with. We also ran into quite a few Kauai residents at the bar which is always a good sign. We also loved the beautiful fire pits surrounded by heliconia plants glowing around the property at night.

Where we ate

Kauai restaurants got hit hard with the recent island shutdowns related to Covid-19. Many businesses were short-staffed and because of this, they were unable to keep normal business hours. For instance, many establishments that would normally be open for lunch only offered their dinner service. Many places were also closed for business 1 or 2 days a week. Luckily, I made a couple of reservations well ahead of our trip but there were a couple of nights that we couldn't find a place to eat for dinner or were unwilling to wait in a long line. Good thing for Foodland in Princeville haha. In spite of the island's Covid-19 restrictions, we did have some fantastic food on the Garden Island. Here's a list of my favorites!

Ama in Hanalei - Definitely a must! Ama has an Asian-influenced menu with a variety of ramen bowls, kushiyaki, yummy salads, and bao. The cocktails were super tasty too. Ama reminded me esthetically of a lot of some of the restaurants we enjoy in Indonesia. The building itself is beautiful with a large outdoor and semi-outdoor seating area. Definitely, a romantic and exotic vibe going on.

The Bistro in Kilauea - My husband LOVED this place! Especially the Fish Rockets. I had to make a few alterations to my plates to make them dairy-free but it was minor. The Bistro is cozy and casual but also elegant. My favorite part was seeing Mr. Chow ( the restaurant’s big gray kitty cat ) roaming free and playfully greeting all the patrons. Everyone seemed to know everyone at The Bistro. Definitely seemed like a local favorite.

Trilogy Coffee in Kilauea - I think we went to Trilogy every single morning. I loved the vibe of the place ( and the surrounding shops ) so much so that when I returned home, I went on a massive hunt to find the Indonesian stone pots scattered throughout the property. We have also decided to use the same puka lava stone they used to pave our backyard as well. As for the food and drinks, it was all delicious. I ordered the Avocado and Pesto toast almost every morning ( pictured above ) but I also tried some of their yummy raw vegan desserts. They also have adaptogenic elixirs as well as coffee and teas sourced from family-owned farms and smallholder co-ops and estates.

Kauai Juice Co in Kapaa, Kilauea, and Koloa - If you've followed me for a while on Instagram @mauimandy, then you will know that I'm a huge fan of Kauai Juice Co. Kauai Juice Co was my first experience with fresh, cold-pressed, artisan juices and kombucha. They also make insanely delicious fermented hot sauces and sambal which you can order from their online shop and they will ship them to you on the mainland. I'm also obsessed with their cute selection of t-shirts, trucker hats, stickers, glass juice bottles, their beautiful bird of paradise logo, and all over general vibe of the shops.

Sushi Girl Kauai in Kilauea - it's easy to miss the little food truck tucked behind a small shopping center in downtown Kilauea ( it's in the same complex as The Bistro if that helps! ) She has a nice selection of maki rolls, large sushi burritos, poke bowls and musubi. Lucky for me she had some great vegan options.

The Hanalei Gourmet in Hanalei - Nice casual lunch option in the center of Hanalei. We always end up eating here 2-3 times every trip. I always get the garden burger and fries! This place always seems to be busy so expect a bit of a wait.

Nourish Hanalei in Princeville - Another hard-to-find little food truck but worth the hunt. Nourish Hanalei has a nice selection of delicious Acai bowls, salad bowls, and wraps. Go for the healthy food but stay for the incredible view overlooking Hanalei Bay.

Where we shopped

My husband and I tend to shop a lot on vacation. We keep saying we're going to stop doing this but honestly when you live on a small island with limited selections, it's hard to resist shopping for our home ( or ourselves ) when on vacation. What we love about shopping in tropical locales is the fact that so much of what we find works so well for us back home on Maui. Let me just say, our suitcases were much heavier on our return flight home per usual.

Hunter and Gatherer in Kilauea - I'm obsessed with this place. Located right next to Trilogy Coffee, it was easy to stumble into this shop almost daily. Hunter and Gatherer is stuffed with some of my favorite brands like Mt. Washington Pottery, Humble Ceramics, and Sundry clothing. They also sell tons of crystals, unique books, incense holders, jewelry, food condiments, and even some surf surfboards. Basically, everything I love.

Ohana Shop Kauai 2 locations in Hanalei - These places are just so cute! Loved all the beautiful shells leis ( ended up buying one ), the delicate local Niihau Momi shell jewelry, the finely woven lauhala Papale ( hats ), and a variety of bikinis, one-pieces, dresses, pareos, and local t-shirts.

Sway Hanalei in Hanalei - Great selection of clothing, ceramics, books, stationery, baskets, candles, jewelry, linens, and artwork. Everything in this shop was beautifully curated and fun to browse through. I ended up purchasing some nice dresses and some small ceramics for my kitchen collection back home.

Have you been to Kauai? If so, let me know your favorite places to visit, eat, and shop. Aloha!